Julia Griffiths to Frederick Douglass, February 18, 1854
WASHINGTON, Feb. 18th, 1854.
MY DEAR FRIEND:—I did not think I
should have been three days in Washington
without giving you some of my impressions
concerning it; but there is so much to see,
and so much to hear in this city, that it is
difficult to find time for writing, without the
exercise of more self-denial than I have
cared to practice since I came here.
My compagnon de voyage will tell you
that we arrived in New York too late, on
Saturday evening, to take the night train for
Washington; so we made ourselves comfort-
able at the Metropolitan; and we were con-
tented with the bright prospect of hearing
Rev. HENRY WARD BEECHER on Sunday.
We found Plymouth Church crowded, as
usual; and heard a spirit-stirring, powerful
discourse from the words "If ye love me,
keep my commandments." It always does me
"good to be there." Pastor and people are
alike in earnest; and an especial "unction
from the Holy One" seems to rest upon their
assembling together. Mighty as is the in-
tellect of Mr. Beecher, I think there is a little
fear of his people fixing their attention up-
on him, rather than on his subject. I was
much struck with the solemn manner in which he
dedicated all his great intellectual powers
to God, asking, with the simplicity of a lit-
le child, for the guidance of God's Holy
Spirit to instruct him what to say to "this
people." To listen to Mr. Beecher is a great
privilege; a vast responsibility rests on
those who, Sabbath after Sabbath, listen to
his faithful, earnest teachings.
But, I have wandered away from my in-
tended subject, and will bring you to Wash-
ington as soon as possible. We started
from New York at six o'clock on Sunday
evening, and pursued our route by way of
Jersey City, Trenton, Newark, &c., to Phila-
delphia. The country through which we
passed is flat, dull, and uninteresting. Trav-
elling through it by night was, therefore, no
disadvantage, especially as the moon lighted
upon the waters of the Delaware. We left
Philadelphia for Baltimore at half past ten
the same night. I need not be the graphic in
my description of that route, as I am inclined
to think you yet retain some recollection of
it. I don't exactly know at what point we
entered Maryland; my attention was first
arrested by Mr. —— saying, "There's the
Chesapeake," as we were crossing one of its
many arms; and then I felt we were in a
slave State.
At Havre de Grace we alighted from the
cars, and took a boat across the Susque-
hanna. The river is here so wide and deep
that I'm told it would be impossible to con-
struct a bridge across. I found, on re-enter-
ing the cars, that the character of the peo-
ple had entirely changed. The people with
whom we left New York had disappeared,
and their places were occupied by a rough,
loud, noisy set of people, who, evidently, did
not subscribe to the Maine Law. We, at
length, took refuge from their awful lan-
guage in one of the ladies' cars.
Of Baltimore, I saw nothing but the back
yards. We arrived there at three in the
morning, and left immediately for Washing-
ton, which we reached at early dawn on
Monday morning. But where are all the
ice and snow? It was but on Saturday that
we crossed the Hudson in a sleigh—and now
the spring has burst upon us—the grass is
green—the trees are budding, and "the time
of the singing birds has" almost "come."
In three days we have travelled almost from
the frigid to the torrid zone. I am told,
however, that this is very unusual weather
for Washington; and that the many warm
garments, with which I am provided, may
yet be needed.
I need scarcely say to you that my wel-
come here was a warm one. I find our dear
and valued friend, GERRIT SMITH, and all his
family, looking extremely well—indeed, I
never saw Mr. Smith appear better in health
than now; but he has suffered considerably
with his head, and finds daily regular exer-
cise very necessary.
I am agreeably disappointed in the ap-
pearance of Washington. It will one day
be a fine city. Extensive enlargements and
improvements are going on at the Capitol;
it is, already, a fine building. Corinthian
in architecture—large in dimentions, and
commanding in situation. It stands on a
hill, overlooking the entire city—the Poto-
mac River, and the shores of Virginia, form-
ing part of the landscape. A wide road or
street, called Pennsylvania Avenue, more
than a mile long, leads from the Capitol to
the White House—that mansion which not a
few have aimed in vain to reach, and in the
struggle have fallen to rise no more. I made
a brief visit to the House of Representatives
on Monday, but arrived only in time to hear
the Ayes and Noes called. This process is
a very tedious one, and much time, that
ought to be considered precious, is lost in
taking the votes of the members. On the
whole, the House does not wear quite as dis-
orderly an appearance as I had
expected.—As yet, I have only seen one member sitting
with his feet on his desk! but chewing, with
all its attendant, disagreeable etceteras, is
in full fashion. The Hall, though large, is
badly constructed, both for hearing and
ventilation—so that the atmosphere, which
pervades the galleries, is neither healthy nor
pleasant; and I do not think Mr. Smith can
sit many hours daily without detriment to
his health. I found it truly refreshing to
turn from the contemplation of the per-
turbed, restless countenances, here so num-
erous, to the spot where, calm, serene and
dignified, our friend, GERRIT SMITH, was seat-
ed. He commands, not only the respect,
but the love of the House. Every member
treats him well. He has no insults to tell
of, and no injuries to recount. On each oc-
casion of his speaking, he has, I understand,
been listened to with unusual
attention.—There is but small chance of my hearing
him speak, I fear; more that twenty mem-
bers have recently applied to the Speaker
for that privilege—so that, though he is quite
prepared on the NEBRASKA subject, he is not
likely to obtain the floor just at
present.—After visiting the Library, the Rotunda, and
the Congressional Gardens, we returned
home, resolving to be early at the Senate on
Tuesday, to hear GEN. HOUSTON (Texas) on
the Nebraska bill. I cannot describe to you
my feelings on entering the Senate Cham-
ber, and looking, for the first time, on the
band of men, whose responsibilities are so
vast, and who prove themselves so entirely
unequal to them. Opposite to me was the
traitor DOUGLAS—an almost dwarf in height,
with Herculean head and shoulders, and the
eye of a basilisk! He was, evidently, rest-
less and uneasy, pretending to read, and
appearing to pay no attention to HOUSTON,
who came out in strong opposition to the
"Bill." I regret that I did not hear the
whole of Houston's speech; for what I did
hear was very able. He has occupied two days
in its delivery; and has showed, by a startl-
ing array of facts, the treachery of the U. S.
Government in all cases of treaties made
with the Indians. If the Nebraska Bill is
carried, it will, he said, be another gross
violation of a solemn treaty made with that
injured people. He is, also, opposed to the
bill, as being a violation of the MISSOURI
COMPROMISE. We left the Senate at half-
past one o'clock yesterday, in order to attend
the morning levee of the President. I was
somewhat curious to see how the Chief of
the United States bears his honors, and what
manner of man he really is. I, and the
ladies with me, was introduced by Mrs. Mill-
er. We were received blandly and courte-
ously by the President. He took each of us
by the hand, and then led us to Mrs. Pierce,
who courtseyed to us all, kindly, but
sadly.—Poor woman! she is much to be
pitied.—She has never recovered from the loss of her
only son; and looks in dreadful health, and
being wholly unequal to the fatiguing duties
that devolve upon her. Mrs. Miller was in-
troduced as, "the daughter of GERRIT
SMITH," and received the marked attention
of the President. The White House is a fine
dwelling, splendidly furnished, and delight-
fully situated. The view from the grounds
is charming. After the levee, we drove to
Georgetown, and then visited the National
Observatory. Here may be seen a number
of curious astronomical instruments, chro-
nometers and charts, &c.; but I must not en-
large.
In the evening, I had the pleasure of
meeting Senator CHASE, (with whom I was
exceedingly pleased,) and other members of
Congress. Nebraska was the subject talked
of. I think you will, by this time, agree
with me that I had altogether a full day.
The weather is still very warm; but, to-day
it has rained. We went again to the Senate
Chamber this morning; but did not stay still
the close of Houston's speech, which I after-
wards regretted; but some of our party
wished to go to the House, where Professor
MEACHAM of Vermont was speaking on the
Nebraska bill. We came in at the close of
his speech, which Mr. Smith considered an
able one; but I am more and more persuad-
ed that rushing from the Senate to the
House, or vice versa, is very unprofitable
work, and I mean to be a more steady listener
in one House or the other to one speech at a
time.
TUESDAY EVENING, 16th.
This letter has been delayed—so I will
briefly tell you who I have seen and heard
since I left off writing yesterday. I had an
introduction to Gov. SEWARD last
evening—and a very pleasant interview with him. I
felt cheered by what he says of the fate of "the
bill." He says, "It will not pass the House."
It is sure to pass the Senate; and if fourteen
votes against it can be secured there, the lit-
tle party for Freedom will have done their
best. Think of it! Where is the North?
There are sixty-two Senators, and thirty-two
of this number come from free
States.—Where are they? Bound, hand and foot, to
the slave power. Senator Chase told me the
other evening that several of the Southern-
ers have expressed to him their unqualified
regrets at the introduction of this abomina-
ble bill—saying that, as the matter stands,
they are, of course, bound to support it, and
not to reject this tempting proposal made
by the North; but it is possible that these
gentlemen are far-sighted, and see more dif-
ficulties in the way than they make mention
of.
When we entered the Senate to-day, Mr.
BADGER, of North Carolina, was speaking in
defense of the bill; and, I rather think,
partly in reply to something that has been
said by Mr. EVERETT. The speech of this
Southern slaveholder was bold and daring in
the extreme. I would not have missed it
on any account. He took the ground that
this Nebraska bill, if carried into effect, will
be no violation of any standing compact; for
the Comromise of 1850 did away entirely
(he said) with the Missouri
Compromise.—He made numerous references on this sub-
ject to past doings of Congress. Surely,
these difficulties and disputations about
these various Compromises, will read our
politicians a solemn lesson to avoid all Com-
promises in the future. Mr. Badger said, that
humanity for the black man should induce
us to yield Nebraska. He spoke touchingly
and pathetically of the tender relations of
master and — slave. How hard it would be,
if he wanted to go to Nebraska, that he
could not take his body servants with him;
perchance, the faithful nurse, who nursed all
his children; or the good "mammy" who
had nursed himself! and to whom he may
be as tenderly attached as to his own flesh
and blood! Upon many of these points I
could see that his arguments were very weak
and sophistical, and the cloven foot peeped
through pretty often. Still, he was bold
and chivalrous—sensitive as to the opinion
of his Northern brethren, and desirous to
make the best of a "very bad matter." He
only displayed asperity in speaking of the
unprincipled abolitionists, who mislead the
good people of the North strangely. Tow-
ards the former he felt indignation; towards
the latter, pity, (as well he might!) I ex-
pect that this speech was a great Southern
triumph—the more so as the course of Mr.
BADGER in regard to this bill was (rumor
says) for some time unknown. The traitor
DOUGLAS listened with intense eagerness,
and unmixed delight to this harrangue,
which, doubtless, proved a quietus to many
a disturbed conscience beside his own. Some
cries of "question" arose at the close of the
speech, when Senator SEWARD, claimed the
right to speak on the subject; and as the
hour was late, he begged that it might be
postponed until to-morrow, Friday morning.
So Mr. SEWARD will reply to Mr. BADGER,
and I shall go early, in the hope of secur-
ing a seat where I can hear distinctly. Were
you here you would sympathize deeply with
the little band who go for Freedom. Sena-
tors SUMNER and CHASE sat side by side,
to-day, looking earnest and anxious. When
I told Gov. SEWARD last night, that some
of us were expecting to hear from him on
Nebraska, he said, sadly, "Oh, you know
there are only thirteen or fourteen of us in
the Senate, to vote against the bill, and only
four or five of us to speak against it, so we
must divide, and scatter our fire as much as
possible."
I will not apologize for sending a rambling
letter. I have written just as I felt, and I
really have no time to spend in re-writing
any of my impressions. You shall hear
from me again.
Very truly yours,
JULIA GRIFFITHS.